Christmas has always been one of my favorite times of the year. There is something special about gathering with family, sharing a festive meal and enjoying the little traditions that make the holiday feel like Christmas.
I have so many sweet memories of Christmas from my childhood. Every year, our whole family gathered at my grandparents’ apartment to celebrate together. My grandmother and grandfather spent hours in the kitchen, cooking and baking for all of us. They never complained about the work. They were happy to do it, and looking back, I think that was part of what made those Christmases so special.
Like many Hungarian families, we had our own traditions, favorite dishes and little rituals. Some of them have changed over the years, but others have stayed with me, especially the flavors and memories associated with a traditional Hungarian Christmas.
Hungarian Christmas Food: Traditional Dishes and Family Memories
Food has always been an important part of Christmas in Hungary. There are a few dishes that many people immediately associate with the holiday, from fish soup and fried fish on Christmas Eve to stuffed cabbage and the sweet treats that appear on the table during the festive season.
Traditional Hungarian Christmas Dishes
When I was growing up, Christmas Eve meant fish soup made with several types of freshwater fish, followed by fried fish with potato salad. These are traditional Hungarian Christmas dishes, although fish was never particularly popular in our family. Still, they were part of our Christmas tradition.
Christmas Day brought another Hungarian classic: stuffed cabbage. Made with sauerkraut, pork and smoked meat, it is a hearty dish that many Hungarian families wouldn’t dream of leaving off their Christmas menu. I have to admit that I have a particular memory of it, too. After a night out partying, I sometimes found myself eating cold stuffed cabbage straight from the fridge in the early hours of the morning. In my younger days, I was convinced it was just the thing to help with a hangover!
Another festive favorite of mine is roast turkey with all the trimmings, especially with a red wine and prune stuffing. It may not be one of the dishes most closely associated with a traditional Hungarian Christmas, but it has always been a personal favorite.
Bejgli and Other Christmas Sweets
Of course, Christmas wouldn’t be complete without something sweet. Bejgli, a rolled pastry filled with poppy seeds or walnuts, is one of Hungary’s best-loved Christmas treats. My husband is particularly fond of it. I never learned to make bejgli myself because my grandmother was the expert in our family. She also made a wonderful Gerbeaud cake, with layers of walnut and apricot jam topped with chocolate. She baked it at Christmas and Easter, and I still associate it with those family celebrations.
Szaloncukor: Hungary’s Favorite Christmas Candy
If there is one sweet that instantly reminds Hungarians of Christmas, it is szaloncukor. The name is often translated as parlor candy, and these small sweets have become an unmistakable part of the Hungarian Christmas tradition. They are usually covered in chocolate and wrapped in colorful foil, often with fringed ends. Traditionally, the candies were made with a fondant filling, although today you can find a wide variety of flavors and fillings, from jelly and coconut to marzipan, hazelnut and cherry.
When I was a child, the choice was much simpler. I remember vanilla and strawberry fondant candies, and strawberry was definitely my favorite. Vanilla? Not so much.
My grandmother, on the other hand, had a very different approach to szaloncukor. Every Christmas, she managed to eat most of the candies hanging on the tree during the night, leaving the empty wrappers behind.
And here comes the clever part: the wrappers often looked perfectly untouched. Somehow, she had mastered the art of getting the candy out without damaging the foil or leaving any obvious sign of what she had done.
You can imagine the disappointment of reaching for a tempting sweet, only to discover that the wrapper was empty. Luckily, she always left the strawberry ones for me.
To this day, szaloncukor is much more than just a Christmas sweet to me. It brings back memories of my grandparents’ home, our family gatherings and the little moments that made Christmas feel magical.
The Hungarian Christmas Tree
In Hungary, the Christmas tree is traditionally decorated on Christmas Eve. For many families, this is an important part of the celebration, and the decorated tree becomes the centerpiece of the home throughout the holiday season.
Christmas tree decorations are largely a matter of personal taste. Some people love glittering glass baubles, while others prefer handmade ornaments, straw decorations or traditional touches such as apples, gilded walnuts and popcorn garlands. When I was a child, we decorated our tree with real wax candles. Today, electric lights are a much more common and practical choice.
But there is one thing you’ll find on many Hungarian Christmas trees: szaloncukor. Hungarians hang these colorful sweets on the branches, where they become part of the decoration as well as a festive treat. And let’s be honest, part of the fun is trying to resist eating them all before Christmas!
Christmas Eve and Family Traditions
In Hungary, Christmas Eve, December 24, is the main moment of the Christmas celebration for many families. It is traditionally the day when we decorate the Christmas tree, exchange presents and sit down for our festive dinner.
Exchanging Christmas Presents
For many Hungarian families, exchanging presents on Christmas Eve is an important part of the celebration. This is when we gather around the Christmas tree and share gifts with our loved ones, rather than waiting until Christmas morning.
Midnight Mass
Going to midnight Mass is another Christmas tradition, particularly for Catholic families. When I was younger, my mother and I went together several times. Years later, I went with my Cuban husband, too. I think we only did it once during all our years together, but I wanted him to experience what this part of Christmas is like in Hungary.
You don’t have to follow every tradition every year, of course. Sometimes, simply sharing a little piece of your childhood with someone you love is what makes a tradition special.
How We Celebrate Christmas as a Family
Christmas Eve is usually a quiet family celebration for us, spent with my husband and my mother. On December 25, we get together with my side of the family, including my cousins and their families.
December 26 has also changed over the years. When my father was still alive, we spent that day celebrating with his side of the family. Since I got married, we have celebrated with my husband’s son, his family and our grandchildren. And, naturally, my husband takes charge of the cooking, usually preparing tuna or salmon alongside Cuban specialties such as torrejas de pan, a traditional Cuban Christmas dessert.
Our Christmas celebrations have evolved as our family has grown and changed. We still hold on to some Hungarian traditions, while Cuban food has become part of our family gatherings, too. For me, that’s what makes Christmas special: the traditions we grow up with, the people we share them with and the new memories we create along the way.
Christmas traditions may be different from one family to another, but if you’re visiting Hungary during the festive season, there are a few practical things worth knowing before you arrive.
Christmas Opening Hours in Hungary
If you’re planning to spend Christmas in Hungary, it’s worth knowing that much of the country slows down during the holiday period. Christmas is primarily a family celebration here, and many businesses close so people can spend time with their loved ones.
Christmas Eve (December 24) is usually a shorter working day. Shops and supermarkets traditionally close in the early afternoon, while many restaurants, cafés and attractions may also have reduced opening hours. In 2026, December 24 is currently scheduled as a day off under Hungary’s adjusted work calendar, although a proposal to make it an official public holiday is still under consideration.
Christmas Day (December 25) and December 26 are public holidays in Hungary. Most shops, shopping malls and supermarkets are closed on both days. Many museums and other attractions also close, although some tourist attractions, restaurants and hotel facilities may remain open.
Public transport continues to operate during the holidays, but services usually follow a special holiday or public holiday schedule. If you’re planning to travel around the country, check train and bus timetables in advance.
Restaurants and cafés have their own holiday schedules, so don’t assume your favorite place will be open. If you’re planning a Christmas meal out, it’s best to check directly with the restaurant and book ahead. And one little tip: do your grocery shopping before Christmas Eve, unless you fancy hunting for the last available loaf of bread!
If you’re planning to spend the holidays in Budapest, you might also find my guide to Christmas in Budapest helpful. It covers the city’s festive activities, Christmas lights, concerts, ice skating and practical tips for visiting during the holiday season. And if you’re looking for the best festive markets, don’t miss my guide to Christmas markets in Budapest.
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